![]() DISC Swar Antiq.Style Bead 4mm Siam Red $0.1750 |


|
||
Art Clay Silver Cufflinks
Requirements : 7 gram Slow Dry Art Clay Silver A-147 2 packets Oyumaru F-047 St. Silver Cuff Links F654060S Liver of Sulphur (Cannot be purchased through mail order. Please contact your local jewellers supplier.) Polishing cloth and “Silvo” or other silver polishing solution Tools such as files and sandpaper, as well as a steel mat for the stove.
The model used was created from watch parts and a $2 coin. I used glue to stick all the part together. For the best result ensure that all parts are closely packed together, so as to avoid undercutting the mould. Although I have not done so myself, a better cleaner mould can be achieved by filling in all the gaps between the parts with a hardening substance. This will help in the separation of the model from the mould and creates a cleaner copy. The coin was used as a base not just for size but also to help aim for a thickness that will allow for the embedding of the Cufflink parts.
Once your mould is ready push the slow dry art clay silver (7gram per cuff) into the mould and massage it in firmly. Now embed the cufflink finding so that part of the clay is covering the disc. Smooth off the top for an even surface. Leave the clay in the mould for 24 hours to air-dry. Do not apply heat to speed up the drying time. Remove the dried clay cufflink carefully by bending back the Oyumaru at the edges first. Perhaps get someone to carefully pull out the cufflink while you’re bending back all the edges. With a fine file carefully file any burr of. Although it will increase the worktime, with fine work like this it may well be best to do most of the filing after to cuffs have been fired.
Close-up of mould. Top of copy. Note that the base of the cuff finding has been partly covered with Art Clay Silver
Fire the dried piece as per instruction on packet. For stovetop I recommend 5 minutes. You will note that the cufflink finding will turn black. This is normal for sterling silver. Most of the tarnish can be easily polished off. However, since we are oxidising the cufflinks this is not of special concern. File off any burrs and do all the sanding and polishing before you oxidise the cufflinks. You will need do to some more fine polishing with a cloth later again.
Liver of Sulphur is used to oxidise the cufflinks. I used approximately 2 grams in 200ml of hot water. The cufflink was submerged for 5 minutes and then rinsed with clean water. To achieve an even tone dip both cufflinks at the same time as variations in heat and concentration of the solution will result in different tones and colours. The item on the right has just been removed from the solution, whereas the item on the left is what it looks like after polishing the higher surface areas. Dissolve the Liver of Sulphur in a glass or ceramic container; do not use a metal container. PolishingAfter you have rinsed and dried the cufflinks use “Silvo” or some other silver polishing cloth to rub off the black oxidisation. Some jewellers will use bicarbonate of soda for a more abrasive method. If you have the funds purchase a jewellers flex drill or a “Dremel” which allows you to use cotton based polishing wheels together with red polishing compound for a much quicker and brighter finish.
Liver of Sulphur. Some jewellers suppliers (see your local yellow pages) will sell smaller quantities than the standard 8oz jar for around $40. A jar like that will last you decades. Health Warning: Please read instructions on the use of Liver of Sulphur carefully. Use in well ventilated area. Avoid breathing in fumes, as they will damage your lungs. For disposal leave the solution out in the open. Sunshine will decay the solution, which can be disposed off down the drain once the solution has changed to a clear colour. |